Carnival Baby! (and home again)

Firstly, apologies that it has taken me a while to add this final blog entry, and I promise that I will check this one for spelling mistakes before I post it. (Sorry to all those who noticed the errors in the previous blogs - I can only blame fast typing and the pressures of the internet cafe!) An English Teacher who can't spell.... tut tut!

Anyway, so I left you in Rio (at the favelas, I believe). Rio Carnival has to be one of the craziest experiences of my life. Never before have I seen such vast numbers of people on the streets enjoying themselves for days on end. Some of the street parties had millions of people attending. The Sambadrome is just an awesome experience. 7 samba schools, 1.5hour procession each school, and over 2 nights. Another sight that just has to be experienced. Photos can never do it justice.

The city is just taken over by the carnival. People just live and breathe it. You see guys, that presumably normally dress in conventional clothes, walking down the street holding hands with their girlfriends, but wearing a dress, as if it is the most normal thing in the world. The streets become awash with spilt drinks and bodily fluids; knee-deep in rubbish and discarded carnival paraphernalia, and the smell is ripe to say the least!

So, I will leave you all now. I am back home, safe and sound. Watch this space for my next trip, whenever that may be!

Christ and the Favelas

Well, this is Rio de Janeiro. "Marvelous city" as they like to market themselves! And I guess they are within their rights to say so.

We arrived here Thursday about midday, and plunged ourselves straight into the city tour. A whirlwind trip up to Christ the Redemer´s statue, Sugar Loaf Mountain, as well as a visit to the modern conical cathedral, and the tiled steps (Escaderia Selaron). After seeing all the iconic images of Rio, it was amazing to actually be there looking at those views in real life. Thursday evening we went out for a buffet dinner (charged per kilo - excellent idea!) And then we stopped to buy water from a street vendor on the way home. We were all invited to have a drink with the locals, who were drinking beer and paying guitar on the street corner (kind of like a makeshift street bar!). It was great - those experiences you just can´t buy!

Yesterday we had a well deserved lie-in. After a 4am start on Thursday and a late night the night before. Then we went for a wander around our area of the town, and looked at the market stalls. Last night we went to a Carnival street party in Lapa. Crazy crazy.... So many people Samba-ing on the streets and partying the night away.

And then today we went for a tour of one of the favelas (the slums that Rio is so famous for.) It was very interesting to see and hear about, but you do of course always feel like a bit of an intruder. The favela we visited has been "under the control of the police" since November last year, as an effort to clean up the favelas in time for the World Cup and Olympics. However, there was a lot of rubbish and open sewers, so I think the clean-up is metaphorical rather than physical! Although, apparently 2 drug dealers were found dead there last night, so I don´t know how well their operation is working!

Tonight we are off to a Carnival Ball. We bought wigs, masks and glitter cheaply in Bolivia, so we are gonna do our best to dress up as carnivalesque as possible with our limited resources!! And then tomorrow is our trip to the official Sambadrome. Can´t wait....

Curitiba, São Paulo and Paraty

So.... from Foz we took a night bus to Curitiba. It was about 10 hours, and not overly comfortable for sleeping. The 10 hour flight home will seem like luxury compared to some of these journeys! And National Express, a walk in the park!!

Curitiba is a really nice city in the South of Brazil (and the home town of someone who has been very important in my life). I was really interested to visit the city, but unfortunately we only had 24hrs to see it. We had a quick nap when we arrived and then set off to explore the city. More specifically the shoe shops! I have found my weakness.... Brazilian shoes! Great restrain was required, and not always exercised!!

In the afternoon, I went for a trip on the hop on- hop off bus, which I didn´t hop off of! I just stayed on for the whole circuit in order to see as much as possible in the shortest time. Will definitely have to go back there some day.

Next stop was São Paulo - again we only had 24hrs to explore, but being Monday all the interesting buildings and museums where closed which was annoying. We managed to go upto the 41st floor of one of the skyscrapers for a panoramic view of the city. Basically more skyscrapers!! The city has 21 millions inhabitants! Give or take....

I also managed to meet up with one of my ex-students - which was lovely.

And then on to Paraty. Paraty is a lovely beach side town. We went on a cruise around the bay, jumping on and off the boat in crystal clear waters, and a few beach stops and some local fish. Yum! It was like a little glimpse of paradise. Sun, sea and sand.

So, now we are in Rio de Janeiro - the Carnival starts tonight! Can´t wait! Amazing!

Paraguay, Foz do Iguaçu, a helicopter and a speed boat!

Long but all encompassing title I feel!! So, where did we leave off..... hmmm.. ahhh yes - Paraguay!

We only had two days in Paraguay (Asuncion). It was really too short a time to get to appreciate the country or the city, and as you can imagine the city tour was a little torturous in 43degree heat! (Sorry to all who are shivering in the UK!) So, we sweltered our morning away looking at some of the more interesting buildings, but not really appreciating them, as we were really more interested in getting from one air-conditioned building to the other. I´m not really sure why the tour felt the need to go into Paraguay at all to be honest, because although i´m sure it is a very interesting place, we had too little time and it took almost 2 days to get there from Bonito, and then another day to reach Foz. We also had to spend extra time going in and out of Paraguian and Brazilian imigration. And if you look at the map, it is a bit of a detour. Anyway.....

Next stop the famous and long anticipated Iguaçu Falls. We started off with the bird park (a place I am sure Julia would have loved ;-) ). Which would have been very interesting, if we hadn´t already seen many of the species in the wild in the Amazon and Pantanal. It was good however to see them close up, but sad to see them in cages. The Tucan´s were so tame they were trying to steel peoples sunglasses, whereas in the wild they are at the top of the highest trees. I was slightly the worse for wear with a dodgy stomach too. Next stop HELICOPTER ride over the falls. I was a bit worried that my stomach was going to let me down, but one imodium, one travel sickness pill and a number of trips to the "baneiro" later, and we were in the air. Fabuloso! Awesome! Such an immense place and amazing to see it from the air in a little chopper that seats 5 people. WOW....
Then it was off to walk around the falls on the Brazilian side. The place is just indescribable and pictures just don´t do it justice. You´ll just have to go!
The next day, it was off to Argentina for the day(!!) to visit the other side of the falls. And a speed boat under the falls. Now, at this point I guess you are imagining a boat, with a bit of water spraying down from the falls and everyone laughing merrily. Uh uh - on no! This was full on bikinis at the ready, speed boat speeding up the river, and then plunging us under the full force of one of the falls. We are talking having to put your head down because the force of the water forces you to, and keeping your eyes closed because you couldn´t keep them open! This was followed by walk to the upper path to look down on the falls, and a boat ride down a very tranquil river that luckily didn´t lead to the falls. But seemed to from the top!! (Apparently 6 german tourists were killed many years ago when the person rowing their boat got tired and they went over the top! yikes!
So, i´ll love you and leave you now, and try and update you on Curitiba and São Paulo tomorrow if I have the chance.

Que Bonito!

So, from the Pantanal, we headed off to Bonito. Which was indeed "beautiful", as its name suggests. The town had a seaside resort feel, although it was inland! But by a river. The main point of visiting Bonito was to see the famous crystal clear waters and snorkel down the river. It is a protected area, and only a certain number of tourists are allowed through per day in small groups to minimise the impact on the environment. The guide was telling us that he believes that tourist access will be blocked completely in the next few years, as has happened to other areas of the same river.
Initially the idea of snorkeling down the crystal clear rivers, and seeing all the species of fish close up sounded amazing. So - yay says we, and we book it. Then we find out to get to the starting point, we first get into wetsuits, then ride in a truck (in said wetsuits and rubber boots) to the edge to the forest/ jungle. Then we trek (in said wetsuits and rubber boots) for 30mins through the jungle. Hmmmm.... not sounding so good. No insect repellent allowed, due to polution of crystal clear waters. Hmmmm hmmmm..... 35degrees C ish, humidity, jungle, wetsuits, rubber boots and mozzies, not a great combination me thinks. So, we all began to wonder what we had got ourselves into. Anyway, although pretty icky, the trek wasn´t so bad. And the rivers were truely spectacular. It was amazing to just be carried along by the current as all the fish some centimentres away from your mask, although within reach of your fingertips, only to dart away at the last minute. Beautiful golden douradas (river versions of the ones we ate in Portugal?? oops!) all sorts of tiny fish, big fish, coloured fish, stripy fish, spotty fish.... you get the idea! Amazing!
It was really floating rather than snorkeling, and it was well worth it. The trip finished at a natural under water "volcano" where the sand bubbled up from the river bed, and we tried to dive down and touch it whilst the bubbles forced us back up. Fascinating! Then back to the ranch, where we stayed, for beer and popcorn.
We all ended up with a mozzie bite or two, but since apparently there is no malaria or dengy fever in that area, it is only the infernal itching that we all have to deal with now! Why exactly were mosquitos invented?? Are they of any use to society??
Day 2 in Bonito was spent relaxing by the river beach and swimming in another part of the river that is open to the general public for a small fee, and not protected like the crystal clear section. There were still fish swimming around us, even as the kids played in their rubber rings, and jumped in. One of the other girls and I got caught up in a feeding frenzy as two little girls tipped a bag of fish food in around us. A lot of splashing and flicking, but luckily they knew the difference between us and the food!
Any how, we reached Paraguay this evening, and we only have a day here before we head back to Brazil and Iguacu Falls. So tomorrow we are going to make the most of being millionaires - the exchange rate is 7,000 guaranis to the pound (more or less!), and do a city tour, and possibly a spot of tax-free shopping!
Hugs to all. x

BRRRAAAAZZIIIILLLLLL! *(more specifically the Pantanal)

So, here we are in sunny Brazil, and it´s hot, hot, hot!

After the border crossing described in the last post, we headed to Corumba. The hotel had a pool, so we pretty much dumped our bags and jumped in! Then drunk Guarana (a Brazilian soft drink for those not in the know) by the pool. Bliss! After our first plate of tasty BBQ, rice and beans and a good sleep, we headed off to the Pantanal - which I believe is the world´s largest wetland (although don´t quote me on that, it could be a load of twaddle!!) We arrived to a swarm of hungry Mozzies and a thunderstorm, so got soaked and bitten to death the moment we got out the van. But hey.... what do you expect if you head into to wetlands in the rainy season! We were greeted by a lovely buffet lunch (meat, rice and beans) and a lodge similar to the one in Amazon. Once the rain stopped we went out for a boat ride and spotted many different types of birds (including Tucans) and lots and lots of caymen. The humidity was intense. I thought i´d spotted a giant otter and got very excited, only to discover when the guide turned the boat around that it was a dead capybara! Apparently Jaguar kill.........

We did also see lots of live capybaras. Which are the world´s biggest rodent (again don´t quote me on that!!). And very cute!
Yesterday, we went to a Fazenda (farm!) and went for a walk through the forest, and spotted more birds, monkeys, and some raccoon type creatures called coatis, which were very inquisitive! After a yummy lunch of meat, rice and beans (spotted the theme yet?!) we went horseriding through the Pantanal. The guide was thrown from his horse when it stepped on a caymen!! Apparently that´s why the guide always leads.....
Last night, after a meal of..... yup, you guessed it..., we went for a night walk, and spotted frogs and the glowing red eyes of caymen in the dark. We also think we saw the silhoette of a jaguar on the other side of the river.
Today, we went piranhã fishing! At first when we were all just standing with our bamboo rods in the fast flowing river, we all thought... yeah right, as if. But then there was a cry from Tasha as she whipped the first one out the river! This was shortly followed by a cry from Steve, as he did the same. Not long after I managed to catch a huge catfish (not what we were supposed to catch, so it was swiftly thrown back!)
In the end, we all managed to catch a least one piranhã and a cat fish or two. I managed 3 of each, but some jumped off the hook mid-air when I was trying to land them! We then had the piranhãs fried. Yummy!

My catfish catch!

Now, we are in Bonito. Snorkling in crystal clear waters tomorrow.....

The Devil´s Miner, Sucre and Beauty treatments in Santa Cruz!

Potosi is known not only as the highest city in the world, but also in the 16th Century, it was the richest due to the silver mines. When I first heard about the silver mines, I thought, hmmm... interesting. What I didn´t appreciate at the time was the horrors concealed within those mines. 8 million people are predicted to have been killed trying to exploit the silver from the mines. And there are still children as young as 10 years old working in the mines. Miners normally live until 35-40 years old max. due to silicosis (a disease that rots the lungs from the inside due to the gases and dust they breath in). And they earn pennies for the privilege. We watched a film called the Devil´s Miner on the first night in Sucre, about a 14 year old boy and his life in the mines after his father died. The film had a profound effect on me. And although it is normal for me to blub at movies, this was part sadness and part horror I think. That these things still take place in the 21st Century makes me shudder.

Anyway, let´s lighten up this blog a bit!!

Sucre is a beautiful city. It´s very different from a lot of the rest of Bolivia, and has a lot of beautiful colonial architecture. We went on a city tour, and it´s interesting to hear how much the Bolivians hate the Spanish, and how they relish in telling the stories of their independance. We went to visit the markets of Tarabuco, which were less touristic than many of the other markets we´ve visited, and were full of locals buying their cocoa leaves, clothes, sandals, food and dynamite (sold to the miners!). In the evening we watched an amazing show of different Bolivian dance styles telling stories from the past.

Then it was off to Santa Cruz. In Potosi some of the group went to see a football match between Real Potosi and Flamingos (a Rio football team) and guess who was on the flight with us. The entire Real Potosi team. This caused great excitment as you can imagine. Although the team was flying economy class with us, and were mixed up with the rest of the rif-raf! We then arrived at our hotel to find the team were also staying there! They are a pretty big team in Bolivia, and the teams are apparently playing for the title of South America cup holders, so apparently they are pretty well known and good at that! You´d never catch Chelsea travelling economy class! And i´m sure there´d be more of an uproar. They definitely wouldn´t have to wait in line, and let us pass through security before them!!!

Santa Cruz itself was a bit dull. It´s a business city primarily! So we went shopping and treated ourselves to massages (5 pounds for 20 mins) and eyelash extensions (10 pounds). So now all the girls are relaxed and fluttering!! Others also had hair treatments (8 pounds) and pedicures (3 pounds 50!).

So now we are in BRAZZZZZZIIIILLLLLL.....

A bit a a hellish day with internal flight, 2 hours wait at the Bolivian Border in the heat and humidity and then a much easier trip through the Brazilian Border. At least the hotel here in Corumba has a pool, with a poolside bar! Luxury!! Off to the Pantanal tomorrow.

Hugs to all :-) x